Stamping Basics

 

Stamping is a hugely popular hobby but there are so many stamps and inks out there that it can be a little overwhelming if you’re just starting out. Here are some basics that might help.

Basic supplies

Card

Different card/paper will give different results so experiment a bit when you get something new to stamp on. A smooth surface with little or no 'tooth' is likely to give the crispest result although stamping on textured paper can give some interesting effects! If you are going to colour your image then white or very pale card is best but you can achieve lovely results by stamping onto coloured or patterned paper, too.

Ink

For information about the properties of specific inks, it is worth checking the maker’s web site as most have good details about whether inks are acid free, waterproof etc.

The biggest ink suppliers to the UK market are probably Ranger (e.g Tim Holtz Distress, Adirondack, Archival), Tsukineko (e.g. Brilliance, Versacraft, Versafine, Versamagic), Clearsnap (Colorbox, Fluid Chalk ink) and Do Crafts (Ink It Up!).

 

There are three basic types of ink:

• Pigment ink
• Dye ink
• Solvent ink

 

Each type has different properties and can be used for different sorts of projects.

 

Pigment ink – this is a thick ink that basically sits on the surface of the paper. It dries slowly so you can use embossing powders and a heat gun with it if you wish. Pigment inks will not dry on non-porous surfaces (glossy or coated cardstock, plastic, glass etc). If you stamp onto glossy card with pigment ink, you can heat emboss though. Popular brands of pigment ink in the UK are Brilliance, Ink It Up! (dye-based also available so check the packaging), Versacolor, Versafine and Colorbox. Pigment inks may be water-based or oil-based.

 

Dye ink – dye ink is faster drying and can be used on glossy cardstock as well as matt. It basically soaks in to the surface so it won’t stick to very slick surfaces such as plastic or glass. Some dye inks are archival quality, fade resistant and waterproof, some are not – check the individual brand if these properties are important to you. Popular brands in the UK are Adirondack (pigment range has just been launched so check the packaging), Memories, Ranger Archival, Ink It Up! (pigment also available so check the packaging), Whispers and Ancient Page. Distress inks (Tim Holtz by Ranger) are also dye-based but have some special properties that mean they stay wetter for longer than a regular dye-based ink.

 

Dye-based inks are excellent for colouring in, too. Squeeze the lid of your pad down before opening and you will have a little pool of ink there that you can use with a watercolour brush to paint your images. Some ink brands will break down with water and give you some nasty surprises on colour (turning out pink instead of brown, for example). Adirondack and Distress inks remain true to colour so they are ideal if you want to try this technique.

 

Solvent ink – the most common brand is Stazon. Solvent ink can be used on any surface including glass, plastic, overhead transparency sheet etc although it is not recommended for use on fabric. If you are using solvent inks, you will need to buy a suitable cleaner for your stamps too.

 

Storing and refreshing your ink pads – some people like to store their ink pads upside down but most manufacturers say this is not necessary. If your pad comes with an inner plastic cover, keep that in placet as it will help to keep your pad fresh for longer. You can place your pad into a zip-lock bag and squeeze as much air out as possible before sealing.

 

If your pad dries out, you may be able to buy a ‘re-inker’ rather than a new pad. These are little bottles of ink used to top up the pad itself, just follow the instructions on the label.

Stamps

There are many stamp choices out there! The two basic materials are natural rubber and clear polymer.

 

Wood mounted rubber stamps – these are the ‘traditional’ stamps that most people have come across. The natural rubber ‘die’ (the bit that makes the picture or wording) is stuck to a cushion that is then permanently mounted on a wooden block. This type of stamp tends to be easy to handle and typically has a picture of the stamped image on the wooden mount that you can use as a colouring guide if you want to colour in your image.

 

Cling-mounted rubber stamps – the rubber die is mounted on a cushion that is designed to cling temporarily to an acrylic block. These take up less storage space than traditional stamps and you only need a small selection of acrylic blocks to cover a wide range of stamp sizes. CD cases are a great way to store this type of stamp.

 

Unmounted rubber stamps – supplied as the rubber die only, with no cushion or block. You can use something like Pritt stick to attach temporarily to your acrylic block or a glue like Alene’s Tack it Over and Over applied directly to the rubber and allowed to dry and become tacky so that you can attach it to the block time and time again. Tack n Peel is an alternative that you apply to your acrylic block rather than to each stamp. If you are stamping with uncushioned stamps, you may want to put an old magazine or several layers of paper under your cardstock – this will typically provide a crisper impression when you stamp.

 

Clear polymer stamps – the biggest advantage with these stamps is that you can see through them so you know exactly where you are placing your image or wording. Most clear polymer stamps cling to an acrylic block while you stamp and are supplied on a clear sheet suitable for storing them. The quality of photopolymer does vary quite a lot and some stamps are softer than others and tend to distort an image if you apply too much pressure when stamping so do try out new stamps on scrap paper to get the feel for them before using on a project. Ink may also tend to bead up on the surface of cheaper polymer, making it difficult to get a good stamped impression.

 

As clear polymer stamps are uncushioned, you may find you get a better stamped impression if you put an old magazine or several layers of paper under your cardstock before stamping. Versafine inks are fabulous for retaining detail and make a great choice for photopolymer stamps.

 

Conditioning stamps – conditioning your stamp when you get a new one can help you get better results straight off. For natural rubber, try sticking a piece of tape (sellotape or masking tape) over the stamp and peeling off. Do it several times over the whole surface. This removes any residue of the release agent used to help the stamp come out of the 'mould' during manufacture. For a clear polymer stamp, it's usually enough just to repeatedly press as if stamping onto a piece of scrap paper before you actually ink it up and use it but you can rub the surface with a good quality white pencil eraser and/or give it a rub on your stamp cleaning pad if you have one.

 

Storing stamps – avoid sunlight. Both natural rubber and clear polymer stamps will be degraded by sunlight so store your stamps in a cool, dry place away from direct sun. Wood mounted stamps can be stored in shallow drawers or boxes, stacked if necessary (no more than two or three deep, face down). Clear stamps are best stored in their original packaging in binders if possible.

 

Cleaning stamps – alcohol-free baby wipes make great stamp cleaners for pigment and dye inks. Stamp off as much excess ink as possible onto scrap paper and then use your baby wipe to clean off any that’s left. Don’t soak wood-mounted stamps in water as it will loosen the adhesive. You can buy stamp cleaning solution and scrubbing mats if you prefer this method of cleaning. If you are using solvent-based ink you will need the correct cleaner.

 

Don’t worry if your stamps become a little stained over time, as long as you clean them sufficiently to prevent ink transfer from one project to another, a little staining just shows that your stamps are well-loved tools!

Basic techniques

It’s usually easiest to ink your stamp by taking the pad to the stamp rather than the stamp to the pad. This lets you see what you are doing and minimises the risk of getting ink where you don’t want it (on any areas around the raised lines of the stamp design itself). Just hold the stamp face up in one hand and your ink pad in the other. Pat the ink pad several times over the surface of the stamp, moving it around slightly before each pat. This also means that you can ink a large stamp with a small ink pad, just keep moving the pad around until you’ve covered the whole surface.

 

Place your stamp straight down onto your cardstock or paper and apply firm, even pressure over the whole area with your finger tips. You don’t need to press too hard, it’s better to leave the stamp in place for a bit longer rather than press really hard and risk distorting the image. Lift the stamp straight up, holding the corner of your cardstock to prevent it moving if necessary. Avoid rocking the stamp as this can cause distortion.

 

Stamp on a smooth, flat surface. A magazine, telephone directory or stack of scrap paper can be useful to provide a little cushion under the surface you’re stamping on.